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KINGSTON |
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Fast, furious and fascinating, KINGSTON is unlike anywhere else in
the Caribbean. Given its troubled reputation, it's hardly surprising
that few tourists visit, and though the scare stories are absurdly
exaggerated, Jamaica's capital is not a place for the faint-hearted.
With a population fast approaching one million, the city seethes with
life, noise and activity; it's a side of Jamaica that couldn't be more
different from the resorts. The live-for-today vitality of the place is
tempered by a cool elegance and a strong sense of national history. In
addition to being the seat of government and the island's administrative
centre, Kingston is Jamaica's cultural heart, the city that spawned Bob
Marley, Buju Banton, Beenie Man and countless other reggae stars, and
it's the place to experience the best of local art, theatre and dance.
Though undeniable, the crime and violence in Kingston is largely
confined to the ghettos, and as these are positively not places for
casual sightseeing, you're actually no more at risk here than in any
other big city. Take the usual precautions - don't walk the downtown
streets alone, take cabs after dark, keep jewellery and valuables out of
sight - and you're unlikely to run into any problems. If you do decide
to visit, you'll find that not only is it easy to steer clear of the
troubled areas, but that there's little of the persistent harassment
that bedevils parts of the north coast.
A handful of interesting museums, galleries and churches can easily fill
a couple of days of sightseeing; the island's best clubs, theatres and
some great restaurants will take care of the evenings. In addition to
the lovely Blue Mountains, plenty of other attractions surround the city.
The area is littered with historic sites, such as the forts of the
English buccaneers in atmospheric Port Royal , while white-sand
Hellshire and Lime Cay beaches are the perfect places for a dip in the
ocean.
The City
Kingston's main sights are divided between the area known as "downtown",
which stretches north from the waterfront to the busy traffic junction
of Cross Roads, and "uptown", spreading up into the ritzy suburbs at the
base of the mountains. Downtown is the industrial centre, its factories
and all-important port providing most of Kingston's blue-collar
employment. You may be surprised at how attractive and easy-going Uptown
feels. Most of Kingston's hotels, restaurants, clubs and shopping
centres are here, and it's where you'll spend most of your time. Some of
the residential districts are simply beautiful, while the central high-rises
suggest a modern city anywhere in North America.
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